From Pacific Camping to Caribbean Chaos: Our Wild Ride Through Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica

After an incredible 10-day camping trip along the Pacific Coast of Costa Rica, filled with sunshine, palm-fringed beaches, and some of the best snorkelling we’ve ever done, we had a thought (as travel families often do): “We’re already here, why not see the other side?”

So, with our backpacks slightly sandier and our wallets slightly lighter, we packed up our tents and made the trek across the country to Puerto Viejo (6 hours by bus- tip get there early to get a seat!), the laid-back Caribbean town that had travellers raving. “Great snorkelling,” they said. “Chilled Caribbean vibes,” they promised.

Spoiler Alert: The Sea Had Other Plans 🌊

When we arrived, we were... well, a bit underwhelmed.

The beach? Busy.
The sea? Super choppy, murky, rocky and definitely not snorkel-friendly.
The vibe? Not quite the family escape we imagined.

Instead of gliding over coral reefs with schools of colourful fish, we were jumping through wild waves and untangling seaweed spaghetti from around our legs. To be fair, the black sand beach had a unique beauty to it, and the waves were fun to splash in with Tilly—but it just wasn't the snorkelling paradise we’d envisioned.

Wildlife Wins (And a Baby Sloth!) 🦥💚

Now, here’s where Puerto Viejo redeemed itself.

On a coastal walk one morning (trying to escape the beach crowds), we spotted something magical—a wild sloth hanging out in the trees. And not just any sloth… this one had a baby clinging to its belly! It was such a peaceful and surreal sight—definitely one of the highlights of our whole Costa Rica trip.

We also stumbled across a few brilliantly coloured poison dart frogs and bright red crabs scurrying through the undergrowth. The constant rain on this side of the country really amped up the jungle vibes—it felt like a true rainforest experience.

Our Rustic Caribbean Cabin Experience 🛖

Accommodation? Well… let’s just say we got intimately acquainted with nature.

We stayed in a colourful Caribbean-style wooden cabin, surrounded by tropical greenery and loud jungle sounds. It was quirky and full of character, but… privacy wasn’t really a thing. The windows didn’t all have locks (or even glass), so it was basically a slightly upgraded tent with walls. After our camping stint on the Pacific, this just felt like camping: Caribbean edition. We stayed for two weeks, so by the end, we were pros at brushing off ants and pretending geckos weren’t watching us sleep.

Pastries Save the Day 🥐🍍

One of our favourite things? Local pastry stalls (Empanada) on every corner. With restaurant prices even more expensive than the Pacific side, we quickly ditched dining out and discovered the joy of pastries filled with pineapple, beef, chicken, plantain, and banana. Absolute lifesavers. Joe and I may have developed a slightly unhealthy obsession (no regrets).

Santa Semana: Not So Fun For Us 🎉

What we didn’t realise was that we arrived smack in the middle of Santa Semana (Easter Week)—which in Puerto Viejo means non-stop partying. The small beaches were packed, the roads were jammed, and the music never stopped. We usually love a good local celebration, but this was a bit much with kids in tow. By the end of our two weeks, we were very ready to leave.

To be fair, it could be a totally different vibe outside of peak season—but for us, it wasn’t quite the relaxing beach escape we’d hoped for.

One big reason we chose Puerto Viejo was its easy access to Panama, which made it a convenient (if chaotic) final stop in Costa Rica.

Would We Go Again?

Honestly? Not to Puerto Viejo, especially not with Tilly (not family vibes) and whilst being on a budget.
But Costa Rica overall? 100% yes.

The Pacific Coast stole our hearts—with its better beaches, more peaceful vibes, and generally more family-friendly atmosphere. If you’re planning your route and travelling with kids (and possibly a tight wallet), we’d recommend sticking west.

Quick Top Tips for Costa Rica (Especially with Kids) 👇

1. Stick to the Pacific Coast
Better beaches, fewer crowds, and calmer seas—especially great for families.

2. Don’t expect Caribbean = cheap
Puerto Viejo was more expensive than the Pacific. Save money by eating from local stalls (and try the pastries!).

3. Avoid peak times (like Easter)
Unless you love crowds and late-night music, steer clear during Santa Semana.

4. Embrace rustic living
Many spots are open-air and rustic—pack with nature in mind, and be ready to hear everything at night!

5. Wildlife is everywhere
Look up in the trees and down on the trails—you might just spot a sloth or a frog without even trying.

6. Plan your route with onward travel in mind
Puerto Viejo was perfect for crossing into Panama, so it worked for us in the end—even if it wasn't paradise.

Final Thoughts? Costa Rica is a stunning, vibrant, unforgettable country. But it’s also full of contrasts. You might go from paradise one week to partying chaos the next. That’s just part of the adventure!

Pura vida, as they say 🇨🇷💚

Puerto Viejo